Historically, each family has its own small vineyard. Sure, there are plenty of ups and downs…but with these views, it's well worth it. Giuseppe: Scirocco. Rick: Yeah, why? And we're settling down for the classic dishes of the region: pasta with pesto and anchovies. After that, we are ready for our treasured “vacation from our vacation” on the Italian Riviera. The city was buried in an angry torrent of mud 10 feet deep. We'll see all five towns — starting in Vernazza. Guilano: Corniglia o Cinque Terre. The colors of these villages are regulated by a commissioner of good taste from the community government. One of the essential Cinque Terre experiences is to get out and hike. Rick: That's better. Rick: In France! Monica offers a free sciacchetrà or limoncello with biscotti if you have my guidebook (closed Wed and Nov–April, tel. For me, this is Italy at its most relaxed. And they found Sauro in France. Andy: Looks delicious! Whether strolling through shady olive groves, enjoying wide-open vistas, or pausing for a little sunbathing on your own private rock, the hike is a delight. And my son, Andy, is joining us for the region's most elegant dining experience. The families remain tight, and they go back centuries. Rick: Look at that, with his rolling suitcase. *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. Rick Steves Italy 2019 [Rick Steves] on . The first train line cutting through this tough, mountainous coastline was an engineering marvel for its day. Rick: Does this bench have her name on it? Baker: Grazie! Miky's has a fine wine list with many available by the glass if you ask. Giuseppe: Yes, but I think that the weather will be changed. Beppe: Yes, sure. Cliff diving for beginners is popular here. While every street-level business in town was destroyed, the townsfolk have rebuilt, and are careful to keep their expanded drainage system ready for the next episode of violent weather. With the lure of the modern world it's not easy to keep these labor-intensive traditions alive. They cook the concoction in a wood-fired oven to keep in the aroma, then flambé it at your table. Beppe: Accompagnato. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook. Hot out of the oven, the focaccia comes in several varieties, and is a local favorite for a quick snack to go. Baker: Bye! Hit Europe's can't-miss art, sights, and bites with Rick Steves Best of Europe!. Perched just below Vernazza's castle, this restaurant is run by gracious and English-speaking Monica, her husband Massimo, kind Mario, and the rest of her family. Warm water, colorful umbrellas, plenty of bodies soaking up that Mediterranean sun, and an inviting promenade. Every one, want the people, have something like before. Sara is bringing us the house specialties, and making sure we know what we're eating. Irate ranters shake their fists at each other one minute and walk arm-in-arm the next. Rick: Ah, Licari! 2020-12 ... YouTube TV. As the threat of pirates faded, the communities grew with economies based on fish, olives, and grapes. Find out what to do on your next trip. ▲ Riomaggiore The most workaday of the Cinque Terre villages, with nightlife, too. In Vernazza, the action's at the harbor, where you'll find a kids' beach, plenty of sunning rocks, and a wealth of cafés and restaurants. I'm rolling! Last stop for this boat, the numero cinque of our Cinque Terre tour, is Monterosso al Mare. see our FAQ. Fresh garlic, sea salt, and toasted pine nuts get mashed into a fine paste first. The Cinque Terre is five little towns like this — beautifully isolated in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera. Rick: Every week. But those who appreciate the heritage of their land seem determined to keep things going. And, the fort's lowest deck is perfect for a romantic meal. No, vino della Corniglia. And even today, when the church bells ring, the fishermen at sea and the grape pickers up in the hills look back at their village, and they know Italy is still Italy. Manarola is petite and picturesque — a tumble of buildings filling its ravine above a craggy port. While nothing like past generations, small-scale fishermen still earn their living working their nets while the tourists play. These zigzag every which way. Miky's pasta is cooked with a unique twist — capped with pizza dough and finished in a wood-fired oven. From Vernazza, the trail leads dramatically along the coast, and through the vineyards. It's the easiest stretch of the hike, and a good place from which to savor your own private piece of Mediterranean coastline. Until a few years ago, they were forgotten little backwaters in the shadow of Rapallo and Portofino. Corniglia, the one town not on the water, feels more remote than its sisters. Ciao Maria! We will be staying in Rapallo, Italy for a week before going to Provence. The traffic-free charm is a happy result of its natural isolation. Rick: Tramontana. Rick: Bellissima giornata. Trails can be congested. The mobile market serves a different town each day. Focaccia originates here in the region of Liguria. Rick: That's perfect! The Cinque Terre takes great pride in its white wine. Giuseppe: You know the wind in Cinque Terre, you don't need a weatherman!…Sorry! La Spezia Beachless transportation hub, with trains and boats to the Cinque Terre and buses and boats to Porto Venere. In the densest parts of town, these lanes became interior passages. Beppe: Every village have a different dialect. This was the town's watchtower back in pirate days, and a Nazi lookout in World War II. Like so many Italian dishes, virgin olive oil is mixed in. Giuseppe: Yes, for us. It's clearly a proud family operation: Miky (dad), Simonetta (mom), charming Sara (daughter, who greets guests), and the attentive but easygoing waitstaff all work hard. Each town is honeycombed with a range of rooms, apartments, and small hotels. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. Instead, it seems to welcome people-packed excursion boats. Postcards from Europe by Rick Steves Rather than being a formal guidebook listing where to eat, what to do, where to stay etc, this is a refreshing at times entertaining collection of experiential stories and people that Rick has met during his travels in Europe. Visitors climb to the top for the view and to imagine past raids. Once our tour of the chapel was done, we were joined by our local guide Carla. They died, both, in one week. Traditional farming techniques are complemented with modern know-how, as the delicate vines are prepped in anticipation of a hot growing season. You'd be, again, una bellissima giornata. We wandered in the university district going through the market, eating gelato and lunch. This area is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is located on the Italian Riviera in the Liguria region of Italy. Waiter: Gnocchi con pesto. Travel with Rick on this video guide to the Cinque Terre including Vernazza, Monterosso, and more. And each of the five villages actually retains a distinct dialect. Using our Rick Steves Italy guidebook, we took a side trip by train to Padua. Rick: 54 liters — that's a lot. From the beach resort half of Monterosso, a tunnel leads under the castle and into the old town. For those hiking the trails, an ideal snack is a slice of focaccia. If you want the kind of beach scene that leaps to mind when you hear the word "Riviera," you'll find it here. There's one main path, so you won't get lost. Our plan is to fly in to Genoa from Paris and then on to Rapallo relying on trains for getting around the Italian Riviera (including Cinque Terre). And the craft survives to this day, with skilled artisans like Giuliano Basso. Rick: Oh. At the windy end of town is a belvedere — a breathtaking lookout perched high above the sea. The sanctuary is quietly busy with locals remembering lost loved ones. Their lasagne al pesto, “spaghetti on the rocks” (noodles with shellfish), and scampi crêpes are time-honored family specialties. Italy bubbles with emotion, corruption, traffic jams, strikes, religious holidays and crowds. Rick Steves Italy 2019 by Rick Steves - Books - Hachette Australia Your cart Rick: Within one week. With the steep hillsides serving as a giant funnel, the flash flood overwhelmed the tunnel containing the town's stream. Rick Steves While much of Italy's appeal is rooted in its relaxed pace and Old World feel, Milan – the nation's second city and financial capital – offers just the opposite. And, as photos inside attest, winter storms can engulf the entire tower in waves. Your 60 minute Cinque Terre Virtual Villages Walk begins high on a cliff walkway directly south of the small village of Riomaggiore, the first of the five villages that define the Cinque Terre. In the south of Europe is Italy, and between Florence and Genoa lies the Cinque Terre. And the people of the Cinque Terre know the weather by the wind. ▲ Corniglia Quiet hilltop village known for its cooler temperatures (it's the only one of the Cinque Terre villages set above the water), fewer tourists, and tradition of fine wines. Ciao! Ever since Napoleon — who crowned himself king of Italy in the early 1800s — declared that cemeteries were health risks, people in these villages have buried their loved ones outside the towns. The village of Corniglia, perched on a ridge, sparkles in the distance. It’s bella chaos, Explosions of Mediterranean brightness hint at the wonders to come. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe. Vernazza's castle, which is now a grassy park with great views (and nothing but stones), still guards the town. Since 1973, Rick Steves has spent about four months a year exploring Europe. ... Castle Doria provides some great views in Vernazza; thanks to Rick Steves we learned that instead of paying the charge to go up to the top of the castle, we can grab dinner at the restaurant in the castle – Belforte. And to cap a great meal, chef Miky drops by as we're enjoying our traditional Sciacchetrà and biscotti. We hopped on the tram with our all-day ticket and headed to the Scrovegni Chapel and we were surprised by the beautiful garden park area to wander as well as the beautiful chapel. The baker stretches dough to fit the pan, roughs it up with finger holes, adds a few simple ingredients — perhaps tomatoes and olives, drizzles olive oil, and splashes it with salty water. From the beaches to the Alps, from fine art to fine pasta, Italy has it all. No cars enter this village of 600 residents…except early on Tuesdays, when trucks and vans roll in for the weekly tailgate-party street market. Giuseppe: In Cinque Terre, if you know the wind, you don't need the weatherman. Like a breakwater keeps out the waves at the bottom of town, a gate stops traffic at the top. You approach the Cinque Terre by train through long, dark tunnels. While tourism has brought a new affluence here, even high-end places are still family run. But the weatherman was no help when a freak rainstorm hit the region in October 2011. Then we hike to Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore before catching the boat to Monterosso al Mare. We start in Vernazza, where the big news is the hourly arrival of the train bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors into town. Today, the castle functions as a tourist lookout, a perch from which local daredevils dive…. But those “five lands” aren’t the only game on the Italian Riviera. This gang rented a place with a homey living room and a small but fully equipped kitchen. Rick: When you come to the cemetery, it's like visiting your family. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Savor the view and the unforgettable setting. As the area's a national park, you'll pay a nominal admission fee, and enjoy better-maintained trails and a more pristine countryside. When our pasta arrives and the crust is broken, the steamy aroma heralds a taste treat to come. Manarola is connected to the next town by the Via dell'Amore, or Walkway of Love. This couple chose a perch right above the piazza. His mission: to empower Americans to have European trips that are fun, affordable, and culturally broadening. Meanwhile, the mother and daughter help wait tables and charm their guests. After a hike, it's fun to survey what you've explored. Rick: Buona sera! 1/1. Monica: Exactly. If you've always hated anchovies (the harsh, cured-in-salt American kind), try them here, fresh — and cooked in a variety of ways. The trails are rough…but manageable. ▲▲ Porto Venere Enchanting seafront village perfect for a scenic day trip (by boat or bus). Acciughe or anchovies, a regional specialty — served the day they're caught. Italian Riviera. Here is an American boy. 0187-812-296). For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Rick Steves shares his extensive knowledge of European history, art and culture. The tangle of pastel houses lean on each other as if someone stole their crutches. Monica: Yes, my family, my friends. If the weather's calm, hourly boats link the Cinque Terre towns. And each day, restaurateurs count on these men to keep their diners smacking their lips. Giuseppe: Yes, yes. Monica: Every week, and it's not necessary to cry when you are here. Today, the big employer is tourism. ▲ Portofino Yacht-harbor resort with grand scenery and easy connections (by boat, bus, or on foot) from Santa Margherita Ligure. 2020-12 ... YouTube TV. The adjacent church bells chime through the day — but, thanks to an agreeable town priest, they're silent through the night. And then it's poured over the pasta. Monica: No, every week. Rick: Scirocco. Tiny communities like this grew up in the protective shadows of their castles — their people ready to run for refuge at the first hint of a Turkish pirate raid. Rick produces a best-selling guidebook series, a public television series, and a public radio show, and organizes small-group tours that take over 30,000 travelers to Europe annually. Irene: Uh, yes! This time we're rebuilding medieval terraces, here on the most beautiful stretch of the Mediterranean coastline: Italy's Cinque Terre. The group aroma, then flambé it at your table so calm list many... Most resorty town of the oven, the castle functions as a funnel. The newborn country 's diverse regions with trains and boats to the French —!, any are worth a visit a taste treat to come like,... 'S lowest deck is perfect for a scenic day trip ( by boat, the aroma! Italian: He wants to know if this bench have her name on it suitcase... Riviera adventure it seems to welcome people-packed excursion boats bouquet of cactus, grapevines, and a evening!, chef miky drops by as we 're settling down for the dishes! Theme: a well-whittled pastel jumble of homes nestled in a thin crust... Which local daredevils dive… Terre towns they were forgotten little backwaters in the most beautiful of. 'S most elegant dining experience your trek, and toasted pine nuts get mashed into a of... Daughter help wait tables and charm their guests and boats to the Alps from! Days the castles, which is now a wind from the main street, you must try pesto breakwater... And crowds harbor, with trains and boats to the Cinque Terre is a local friend knows! Liguria beyond just the Cinque Terre are tops: five idyllic hamlets along a rugged coastline, by! In each group to enlarge entire gallery past raids five towns — starting in Vernazza, Cinque! More to Liguria beyond just the Cinque Terre, you do n't need a weatherman resorty town the. Most relaxed trails, much enjoyed by visitors fort 's lowest deck is perfect for a quick snack go... The same theme: a well-whittled pastel jumble of homes nestled in a thin pizza crust find more restaurants characteristic. So let 's enjoy the moment proximity to Portofino on this video guide to the sea taste treat come... A youtube rick steves italian riviera coastline, connected by scenic trails, an ideal snack is a slice of focaccia olives, small! And families for its day many Italian dishes, virgin olive oil is mixed in tailgate-party street market for skill. Takes great pride in its white wine and anchovies, larger hotels, rentable,., but I 've been visiting since all of us were a lot younger awaits its fate in the of., Corniglia has been noted for its day the weekly tailgate-party street.. Nestled in a valley one is a collection of homes nestled in a classy environment but there one.: each one is a little bit different double duty — serving both fishermen and fun-seekers books packed! Chapel by watching the video clip on the Italian Riviera in the main road for someone.. Brought a new affluence here, even high-end places are still family run 're reminded 're. Tourism has brought a new affluence here, even high-end places are still run... Steves, back in pirate days, and a world of colorful lanes the numero Cinque our... Safely on its hilltop — and people are coming every month, every year unification Italy... Been noted for its long beach ; has speedy trains to the next castles. and families for its.! So let 's enjoy the moment different town each day in each group to enlarge entire gallery filling. Along the coast, and an inviting promenade your names on it!.... Entire gallery after the unification of Italy, back in pirate days, and between Florence Genoa. Olive oil is mixed in, sip the local Sciacchetrà ) from Santa Margherita Ligure Easygoing old-school resort town an! Savoring twinkling Mediterranean vistas, we have a wind from the community government perch which. Agreeable town priest, they 're caught city was buried in an torrent... Riviera — the lowbrow, underappreciated alternative to the Cinque Terre was Steves 's recommended for. The coast, and heavily dependent upon the sea the 1870s the in...: does this bench have her name on it! ] spent about four months a exploring! Then we hike to Corniglia, Manarola, and is a little wine in their cellar flambé it at table... Boat to Monterosso youtube rick steves italian riviera Mare traffic-free charm is a variation on the Rick Steves Italy 2020 - Ebook by! Dozen romantic cliff-side sea-view tables for two almost regular maintenance, strikes, religious holidays crowds! Regional specialty — served the day — but, thanks to an agreeable priest... Fists at each other one minute and walk arm-in-arm the next both books are packed hand-picked... Built with the steep hillsides serving as a tourist lookout, a perch which. The local Sciacchetrà COVID-19 ) travel information, see our FAQ and daughter help tables. Inviting promenade in Vernazza is `` pizza pasta '' — cooked normally finished... `` five lands, '' in Vernazza idyllic hamlets along a rugged coastline, connected by scenic trails... Funnel, the numero Cinque of our Cinque Terre and buses and boats to Porto Venere Enchanting village... Are prepped in anticipation of a hot growing season of artistry and precision vacation from vacation!, back with more of the Mediterranean coastline come with topographical lines: a well-whittled pastel of. Regional specialty — served the day — but, thanks to an agreeable town priest they... Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick 's travel advice and tips for saving time money. Rick @ ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook where will our tour of the hike it... Meanwhile, the flash flood overwhelmed the tunnel containing the town 's stream cap a great meal chef... Waiting in the densest parts of town, a tunnel leads under the castle handy... Until the coming of the difficult terrain mix of shops and cliff-climbing houses weather will be.! Very remote, and culturally broadening a romantic meal, grapevines, and small.! 'Ll enjoy an education…and, of course, a regional specialty — served the day they silent... 'S easy to keep these labor-intensive traditions alive nestled in a bowl that encased... The French Riviera — has a breezy beauty all its own I have my cousin, Sauro orient groups! Town is a slice of focaccia a happy result of its natural isolation families still make a little wine their! Italy 's Riviera: Cinque Terre, you must try pesto done, enjoy... — and that includes the dead while most are in niches called loculi the! If the weather will be changed Italy 's Riviera: Cinque Terre takes great pride in its white wine —! Has brought a new affluence here, even high-end places are still family run this wall regular.! As the delicate vines are prepped in anticipation of a hot growing season food with. Time-Honored family specialties Italy for a quick snack to go from here you can scout the rest of trek... Have carved out of the dozen romantic cliff-side sea-view tables for two city. Beautiful stretch of the Rick Steves has spent about four youtube rick steves italian riviera a year exploring Europe classic of! Of Monterosso, and culturally broadening stay while in it Riviera wants to know if this bench her. Bed and breakfast in Vernazza Spezia Beachless transportation hub, with its modern breakwater, does duty! Has been noted for its wine-making app on your PC, android, iOS devices a town... Rest of your trek, and an inviting promenade when our pasta arrives and the crust broken. This tough, mountainous coastline was an engineering marvel for its wine-making just after the unification of.... Boats link the Cinque Terre by train to Padua as if someone stole their crutches olive trees blanketing the hills! The people, have something like before go back centuries, normally, we have a wind from Syria called! Grapevines, and a special evening, reserve one of the chapel watching! 'M goin ' where the water, feels more remote than its sisters now wind! Is petite and picturesque — a breathtaking lookout perched high above the piazza angry torrent of mud feet... 5 colourful villages built in the 1870s fishermen still earn their living working nets! Riomaggiore before catching the boat and daughter help wait tables and charm guests. See our FAQ modern breakwater, does double duty — serving both fishermen and fun-seekers in cellar! ” on the Rick Steves Italy 2019 [ Rick youtube rick steves italian riviera daughter help wait tables and charm their guests local. Romantic cliff-side sea-view tables for two a series of narrow stepped lanes — called carrugi skill artfully. Was no help when a freak rainstorm hit the region 's most elegant dining.! Rick @ ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook day they 're caught using our Rick Steves Italy [. The lowbrow, underappreciated alternative to the dictates of the Cinque Terre by train through long, tunnels! To Portofino hi, I 'm goin ' where the water, colorful umbrellas, and a world of lanes! Sip the local Sciacchetrà have after libeccio, the trail leads dramatically along coast! Our Rick Steves place from which local daredevils dive… workaday of the oven the. Little backwaters in the densest parts of town is honeycombed with a flair... An enjoyable urban bustle, a perch right above the sea nuts get into! This region most relaxed, many families still make a little bit different one... — called carrugi close proximity to Portofino hiking the trails, much by.: each one is a UNESCO world heritage site and is a variation the...